Saturday 19 December 2009

SAY NO TO FASHION, EDITION 2


I've spent a while in the past year talking to various people about use of cheap labour within the fashion industry. What it boiled down to, what do fashion retailers they themselves have to say. I contacted most high street shop head offices; who refused to discuss ethical policies with me in person.

Only way that I could develop next area of SAY NO TO FASHION project, by interacting and getting direct feedback from retail companies. Seeing that they didn't to discuss, their ethical policies with me. I decided to go to shops and make up stories that I was interested in buying garments. This was only way to start conversation, and record anything that companies had to say about ethical policies.

Below some a few films I've made so far:

Hennes,

when top are sold for £8 and and companies try to say they were made in good good work conditions, this needs to be questioned!



Louis Vuitton, make bags in china, but still write inside bag made in France and sell them for thousands of pounds. I decided to ask the shop manager about details and naturally she lied.



My 1st ever visit to primark on oxford street, it had to be filmed, and ending was a bit funny




Wednesday 4 November 2009

M.I.A looks likes she's fighting for democracy but in reality she's contributing to the corruption

MIA President t shirt 50% designed by ihtgw










After much contemplation I've decided to write this, mainly working out, that I'm one of the victims who has not much to loose, and also considering that; I don't hesitate being vocal about uncovering the truth. Here goes:


In 2007 a couple of months before launch of M.I.A's 2nd album, her brother Sugu contacted me via myspace to work on, design samples for M.I.A's KALA album merchandise t shirts. I emailed a few samples of my work to Sugu and he liked them, from there I had a meeting with M.I.A. Before meeting started; Sugu asked me to pretend we were mates, as in we hang out together, this was not true at all, because, as I said we met on myspace, only to discuss M.I.A's merchandise t shirts and there was no friendship beyond that. This was the first indication that things were slightly dodgy. First meeting with M.I.A; she gave me her art work, looked at samples of my design work, explained what she likes and didn't like. This gave me a good indication of how to work on: design layout and what materials would be best to use for type of design she wanted to achieve.


Within a week or two I had all key merchandise samples ready. This all required a good 5 days work week, involving: leg work, buying/ choosing materials, having meetings with printers explaining how the art has to be designed on t shirt, and matching different material with different colour t shirts. On top of this, there was more bits of work, they wanted me to do such as: designing a collection and a few other t shirt prints. After all this was completed, all key samples were sent to M.I.A; she liked the samples.


Next meeting was arranged; by this meeting I had to be straightforward about my freelance rates, as there was no discussion of this at the start. 2nd meeting involved talks about: quote, quantities, t shirt colours, logistics, further design ideas, and also this meeting took over 3 hours. The meeting before this, I was waiting for a good 2 hours and M.I.A didn't even show up. For me this is serious valuable time, that I can invest in my own work. In 2007 I was working on developing my label, I was not looking to do any work experience, I've had my fair share of useful work experience in my late teens and early twenties. In first meeting with M.I.A, I had no idea of exactly what I was expected to do, therefore I had I no time to think about freelance rates, and contracts before hand. By the last meeting I knew; there was no way I could do all this running for scraps, I had bills to pay. I went away put together quotes for; dealing with manufacturing 5000 t shirts. Without any exaggeration, my quotes and freelance rates were fair and realistic. But if M.I.A agreed with my quotes then she would have to sell t shirts on her webstore for an extra £10/£15.


About a month went by; after emailing these quotes, and there was no reply from M.I.A's team, I thought they didn't like the samples, and weren't going to use them. M.I.A launched her webstore in early August 2007, and she was selling t shirts I sampled, technically I had had 50% design rights over those t shirts. I spoke to one of my long term business advisors, who has worked in the fashion industry for atleast 30 years. He was adamant that I take further action; he heard, a very similar story from another designer about MIA.


This was not a simple copy right issue, it was a technical copy right issue, only specialist design lawyers are skilled enough to work on these issues. They understood my case, and agreed that I had rights over each one of those 5000 t shirts. These lawyers cost £400 an hour, there was no way I could afford to hire these lawyers, so I had to put the case on hold.


In the past couples of years I've come across similar stories about M.I.A. What triggered me to write this today: recently I found out MIA president T shirts (t shirts I sampled), were her best selling merchandise t shirts. When I first heard this, I laughed it off, but it kept on knocking on my head in past couples of days. Fact there's no mention ever by MIA that I even worked on designing those t shirts, she could have even given me that much credit. I have tried to discuss above issue with MIA and her team, but there is NEVER no response. A fews months after all this happened in 2007, I received a message on myspace from Afrikan Boy, who said maya and sugu, recommended he contact me for t shirt designs. And no, there was no work with Afrikan Boy; I laid out costs and contracts from the first second and he never replied. THE SHAME!


From all this I learnt it was absolutely vital to layout contracts before any discussion of design work proceeds. Another reason I decided to write this because as humans, we are all responsible for each other; if anyone reads this and passes the word, it might save someone else being used abused victim of MIA and her team.


Monday 2 November 2009

Wednesday 23 September 2009

OVERLOADED Exhibition blow off schedule september 09

great DJ sets by: rObo|hEr0, Hit club DJ's, KWERK, George Aizawa. George also showed collection of great pictures. below some clips and photos







Thursday 3 September 2009

OVERLOADED

Finally making a collection with jacket, trousers, shirts, shorts. EXCITED! On saturday 19th september between 1pm and 8pm, im doing an installation during blow off schedule london fashion week. there will be several different DJ sets and more art by other people. everyones welcome so pop down even if its for 5mins.

Above exhibition flyer and below few images of collection in the making. this collection is continuation of previous concept: NO CLASS. Main inspiration for this collection: every day life, routines, simple ways, reality, past, present, future and ordinary days. Amalgamation of energies: people, races, religions.



Sunday 28 June 2009

NO CLASS















NO CLASS is my current project it's based on eradicating: class system, status symbols and racism. This is an ongoing collection that I'm working on at the moment, and I'm only doing new prints/ art when I feel time is relevant; development of collection is slow but I'm excited about directions it will progress into.


Thursday 9 April 2009

what ihtgw means

I made up ihtgw in 2002 it means I have to get work . Theres was no plan to make ihtgw part of my design work, it was just my personal response to way capitalism has structured everyones lives; to survive you have to have a job that earns you money. And the average persons obsession about having or getting a job; that can be soul destroying and often has no real point to it. By making up ihtgw my question to myself was: how do I achieve infinite freedom in this system.

Thursday 2 April 2009

RACE AGAINST THE RACE

Idea behind concept of this collection is about people racing against each other in: work race, different races, religions fighting against each other and human race; people trying to get ahead of each other. Although I'm a determined person and I can work very hard when I want, but idea of racing against people is alien to me, I don't enjoy frivolous competitions against people, and I'm completely content about people trying over take me when I'm walking. This way I usually find myself watching people racing against each other against a race that doesn't have prize that I aspire, thats why I don't bother running the race. 

See collection at: www.myspace.com/ihtgw

RACE AGAINST THE RACE

Wednesday 18 March 2009